How to String a Lacrosse Head
Stringing your own lacrosse head gives you control over your pocket — throw, hold, and release — and saves you the $10-$20 a shop charges each time you need a restring. It takes practice, and your first pocket won't be your best, but the basics are learnable in an afternoon if you understand what each string is doing and why.
This guide covers traditional mesh stringing (the most common method), not traditional leathers/laces or shooting-string-only adjustments. For women's stringing, the same techniques apply but keep legal pocket depth rules in mind throughout.
What you need to string a lacrosse head
- Mesh piece. The mesh is the woven netting that forms the actual pocket. Hard mesh holds its shape better and is more consistent in wet weather. Soft mesh breaks in faster and molds to your throwing motion but requires more re-adjustment over time. Mid-mesh is the most common starting point.
- Top string. A single piece of string (usually sidewall string) that attaches the mesh to the top rail of the head. The top string tension controls where the ball sits in the pocket.
- Sidewall strings (2). Two pieces of string that run down each side of the mesh, attaching it to the sidewall holes. Sidewall tension controls channel (where the ball tracks during release) and overall pocket shape.
- Bottom string. A single string that attaches the bottom of the mesh to the throat of the head. Bottom string tension affects how deep the pocket sits and how quickly the ball releases.
- Shooting strings (2-3). Horizontal strings strung across the mesh near the top. They affect throw — specifically whip (how much the ball dips on release) and release point. This is the most commonly adjusted part after initial stringing.
Step 1: Attach the top string
Thread the top string through the center holes at the top of the head and through the top row of the mesh, working from the center outward. The goal is even tension across the top rail — the mesh shouldn't bunch or sag on either side. Most stringing patterns start with a knot in the center and work outward in mirror images.
Tighter top string = ball sits lower in the pocket (more hold). Looser top string = ball sits higher (quicker release, less hold). For beginners, start in the middle and adjust after you've thrown with it.
Step 2: String the sidewalls
Sidewall strings go through the sidewall holes on each side of the head and through the corresponding holes in the mesh. The pattern (how many holes you skip, how you tie off each connection) determines pocket shape.
Even, matching tension on both sides is the goal. An asymmetric sidewall causes the ball to track toward one side on release — a common cause of consistent pulls left or right when throwing. Take your time here and count holes to make sure both sides mirror each other.
Common beginner mistake: pulling sidewall strings too tight. Start with moderate tension and check how the pocket sits before tightening further. Overly tight sidewalls create a narrow channel that reduces feel and control.
Step 3: Attach the bottom string
Thread the bottom string through the bottom row of mesh and the throat holes in the head. A tighter bottom string pulls the pocket lower and deeper (more hold, more whip). A looser bottom string lets the pocket sit higher (faster release, less hold).
Youth players often benefit from a looser bottom string to encourage clean release. More advanced players tune this to taste.
Step 4: Add shooting strings
Most pockets start with 2-3 shooting strings strung horizontally across the top third of the mesh. Standard starting position: one near the top (within the first 2-3 rows of mesh), one in the middle of the top section. Tighter and higher shooting strings add more whip (ball kicks down harder on release). Looser or lower shooting strings reduce whip for a more direct throw.
This is the most commonly adjusted component. Throw a hundred times, then adjust one shooting string at a time rather than changing everything at once — it's much easier to diagnose what's happening.
Breaking in a new pocket
New mesh doesn't feel like a broken-in pocket immediately. Two things speed up break-in: (1) throw against a wall for 20-30 minutes, repeatedly. (2) Use a lacrosse ball or rounded object to press into the pocket and work it by hand. Some players get the mesh slightly damp before break-in to loosen the fibers — this works but means more re-adjustment as it dries and shifts.
Hard mesh breaks in slower but holds its shape longer. If you want a consistent pocket week to week, hard mesh is worth the longer break-in time.
Check for legality
After stringing, check that the pocket depth is legal before taking it to a game. For men's, the ball must remain above the bottom edge of the sidewall when the head is held sideways. For women's, the pocket is significantly shallower — check current US Lacrosse rules for your level. A stick check before a game is not the time to discover your pocket is illegal.